Here John and William Parish Robertson reminisce on their days (1815-ish) in the Southern Cone. I think these guys are brilliant writers, witty, entertaining, informative...

Speaking of Argentina:

It would scarcely be believed in this country [i.e. the UK], where, although contraband is so much encouraged by our legislature, it is so terribly persecuted by our courts of law, and where court favor is so imploringly, so abjectly sought, yet so dearly paid for, what a handsome amount of the customhouse revenue, and how large a portion of diplomatic influence, Don Agustin Saenz, captain of the polacca Florentina, could purchase for half a dozen barrels of London bottled stout....The captain's double brown stout was omnipotent; and if Mr. Guinness (unknown in our Corrientes days) would establish a porter brewery there, like the one he has in Dublin, I have no doubt he might buy up a large portion of the country, and turn it into a hop-garden for the supply of the world.

Yes, even those two lines have it all: coimas (bribes), contraband, a meandering British legal system, and the sad state of beer in this part of the world.

It's nearly impossible to get a good espresso in Asunción (this is, after all, the native country of yerba mate and this is to be had in copious amounts and in creative ways). I haven't been able to buy coffee beans at any price (which is why I brought in several bags of coffee as well as a cappuccino machine in my luggage when I moved here-- it raised a few eyebrows at customs).

Nevertheless, Cafe Literario, in the microcentro of Asunción serves a compelling brew. It's located on Estigarribia (aka Palma) between Caballero and México just next to the Plaza Uruguaya and is open daily from 4pm-ish until past midnight. Outdoors there's great people watching. Indoors is a cozy two-level room crammed with books and tables around which you can crowd and talk anthropology or sit quietly at your computer trying your best at a dissertation chapter.

One exposed-brick wall is a photo tribute to Paraguay's literary greats. This is the only cafe of its like/caliber I've been able to find in Asunción that isn't an imported franchise. And it's excellent.

No internet, unfortunately. The food and desserts and drinks are fine. The chocolate mousse cake is particularly worth a try. As is the "cafe literario"-- sweetened-condensed milk and espresso.