Showing posts with label Triple Frontera. Show all posts

Remembering Neil Smith (1954-2012)

By Christine Folch | Published Saturday, September 29, 2012

UPDATE: For updates on services and a chance to share your memories of Neil, see the Center for Place, Culture, and Politics at the CUNY Graduate Center.

Neil Smith at the American Association of Geography annual meeting in 2011.

Neil Smith, a Marxist geographer who found himself at home in an anthropology department, passed away early this morning. His sudden and unexpected passing leaves many of us in a lurch and I'm sure that there are many reflections and in memoria to come as the many people he touched try to make sense of his far-reaching legacy. (See "Uneven Development" (available free! online) "Uneven Development Redux")

Neil will be remembered as a firebrand who minced no words in his critiques and left no sacred cow unchallenged in his contributions to geography, history, anthropology, and more. But here I want to reflect on Neil Smith as someone who was very fortunate to be his student. I always found Neil, in spite of his fiery reputation, to have a quiet manner about him.

On a fall day, much like today, over a pint of stout (much like the one I'm enjoying now), Neil and I discussed a brief paper I'd turned in, which dealt with my earliest forays into a little studied part of the world: the Triple Frontier.



His reiterated his comment, "This sounds like the prelude to a dissertation..." and that was all the encouragement it took. It was in his class that I came across my dissertation topic.

Our "Endgame of Globalization" seminar that semester quickly became a course where the students had free rein to explore whatever interested us. He was as much a participant as he was a facilitator. Neil's seminal argument about the production of scale is the kind of productive and provocative idea grad students love to pick up and incorporate in their own work. He was never proprietary or fearful of what his ideas might become in the hands of his students. His fearless generosity with his ideas made him an excellent teacher.


An Irish stout
An American oatmeal stout

Neil, I'm really thankful to have been your student. Oh, and that plant you asked me to revive never really made it, sorry!

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A Different Perspective on the Triple Frontier/Triple Frontera: Business, not Ideology.

By Christine Folch | Published Friday, September 7, 2012

I have a new piece that just came out in Foreign Affairs:

Trouble on the Triple Frontier

The Lawless Border Where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay Meet

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Nature Sacrificed: Saltos del Guairá/Sete Quedas (Guairá Waterfalls) in 1936

By Christine Folch | Published Wednesday, June 13, 2012

The Guairá Falls, on the Paraná River between Paraguay and Brazil, were flooded in the early 1980s as part of the construction of Itaipú Hydroelectric Dam, their beauty sacrificed to create energy. (They're sometimes called "Guaíra" in Brazil).

This is a fantastic video from 1936 (!) that gives a sense of their majesty. Notice the couple walking along the flimsy bridge (and their gaucho pants!).


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New mosque in Ciudad del Este: fears of future violence.

By Christine Folch | Published Sunday, April 29, 2012



Image of the future mosque (and construction) in Ciudad del Este. h/t: Última Hora
A new mosque and cultural center is being built in Ciudad del Este (Paraguay). The cornerstone was laid this morning in a construction project that's estimated to take another year and a half. The building, which is located a little less than two miles west of Ciudad del Este's commercial center, is likely to prove controversial on a number of levels.

The area surrounding Ciudad del Este, the Triple Frontier where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet is home to a sizable Lebanese-Syrian population (some 3% of the total population in the region) which has come under international scrutiny. The security concerns are that the community in the Triple Frontier is connected to Islamic terrorist groups and provides financing/shelter/logistical support for violence in South America and beyond. The construction of a new mosque, financed entirely by the local community, might seem like a reaffirmation of this.

Última Hora, an important Paraguayan newspaper, reported on the cornerstone-laying ceremony that took place today and the user comments are fascinating. The majority (all written in Spanish, presumably by Paraguayans) are upset with the new mosque because they see it as an example of Muslim expansion into a Christian country: "Very bad. What lack of respect. They kill Catholics. Why let them build a mosque in a country that is 98% Catholic?" Another commentator worries that this will serve as a pretext for foreign military intervention: "This puts us in the sights of the gringos, so that they'll invade us in the future under the pretext of 'a hotbed of Arab terrorism' in order to get hold of our natural resource: water. Careful!" 

It'll be interesting to see how this conflict unfolds.

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Lost Laptop: Ciudad del Este Intelligence Nightmare

By Christine Folch | Published Wednesday, March 7, 2012

It sounds like the opening of a spy thriller: the Head of Paraguay's Anti-Terrorism Unit has his laptop stolen, containing an unencrypted copy of all the classified documents of the Intelligence Agency, including those having to do with Ciudad del Este. Despite claims to the contrary, it seems that this personal computer (stolen on February 2, 2012) contained lists of confidential informants, including the names, aliases, email addresses, and family trees of individuals who've been involved with investigations regarding the Triple Frontier.

According to ABC Color, even after an investment of $30,000 from the U.S. embassy to improve security in the Unit, "Among the files was a complete list of informants who collaborated in the Triple Frontier, particularly in the investigation of principle members of extremist Arab [sic] groups, like the powerful Hezbollah."

The fear is that the critical information has been sold off and that there will be a string of retribution killings will unfold.


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Sex-Trafficking and Prostitution: Paraguayan exports to Spain

By Christine Folch | Published Monday, June 27, 2011

Spanish TV channel Canal 4 takes the trip to Ciudad del Este to explore the massive sex-trafficking that goes between Paraguay and Spain, where many women think they're going to Europe to get jobs as waitresses or domestic workers and then discover what they're asked to do.

This is only a preview. Once I locate the whole special, I'll post a link.

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NYPL Public Lecture: Stakes of a Triple Frontier City: the Untold History of Ciudad del Este 1/21 @ 1:15

By Christine Folch | Published Thursday, January 6, 2011


I will be presenting some research as part of the New York Public Library's lectures on History on January 21 @ 1:15pm.

Here are the details:

Please join us as seven authors from the Library's Research Study Rooms
present in the South Court Auditorium a wide-ranging series of
free public lunch-time (1:15 pm) lectures on
History

Stakes of a Triple Frontier City: the Untold History of Ciudad del Este
Friday, January 21, 2011


Ciudad del Este is the stuff Hollywood dreams are made of. Paraguay’s second largest city is the subject of action movies, spy dramas, and airport mystery novels. In the heart of Latin America, the story goes, sits a triad of border cities where shoppers weave between rickety stands to enter gleaming shopping galleries owned by Taiwanese or Arab merchants. A panoply of organized crime supposedly takes advantage of low tariffs and even lower customs enforcement to smuggle billions in contraband to neighboring Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil or Puerto Iguazu, Argentina (and then beyond). Rather than this spectacular and yet shallow depiction of the city, come hear a different account of Ciudad del Este. Instead, we will look at the founding of the city in 1957 and its trajectory over the next three decades to see how a city planned to be the emblem of a modern Paraguay has developed into what it is today, the hopes and disillusionments of globalization.

Christine Folch is completing a dissertation in the Anthropology Department of the CUNY Graduate Center on the national and international politics of hydroelectricity, based on years of fieldwork in Paraguay.

Elevator access is at 42nd Street.
All programs are subject to last minute change or cancellation.

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After the Oscars, Triple Frontier movie big news in Paraguay

By Christine Folch | Published Tuesday, March 9, 2010


2003 satellite image of the triple frontier, urbanization predominates on the Paraguayan side

Kathryn Bigelow and Mark Boal, newly minted with well-deserved Oscars, now turn their attention to their next project, a movie about the triple frontera, the tri-border area between Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina that's a node of movement between the three countries. While popular imagination sets Ciudad del Este, Paraguay's city at this border, as the weak and corrupt link, the reality is much more interconnected, with much of the movement across the border (and certainly the compraturistas who cross the Friendship Bridge for day shopping trips) performed by Brazilians themselves (and the vast majority do not live in Foz do Iguaçu, the Brazilian city across the river).


The Friendship Bridge, which connects Paraguay to Brazil, under construction (in the 60s)

Miami Vice also filmed in Ciudad del Este... their legacy lives on in a wooden ramshackle car repair shop (taller) named after them, on Carlos Antonio Lopez (but no one in CdE knows the names of the streets).

Now the Paraguayan press has caught wind of the new movie project, Triple Frontier (Guerra al terror). Already sadly familiar with serving as a setting for international dramas (the fame of the border arises from more than just the smuggling that goes on there, but from the presence of Lebanese and Taiwanese communities, which have been accused of links to organized crime and terror--a charge they vigorously repudiate), Paraguayans seem to be responding with a "meh" or "I wish someone would make a movie about the War of the Triple Alliance (1865-70) instead."

That war saw the death of 9/10 Paraguayan males and the loss of about 1/3 of its territory as Paraguay lost to the combined forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay.


The region in 1973... all the growth you see above is on the Paraguayan side.

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Tri-Border Area comes to TV: "Triple Crossing"

By Christine Folch | Published Thursday, March 4, 2010

The Sundance channel has announced its line-up for the next year and it looks like the Triple Frontera--the border zone between Ciudad del Este, Foz do Iguaçu, and Puerto Iguazu (Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina, respectively) where I've lived and researched--is becoming an increasingly popular go-to setting for exotic baddies.

Here's the heart of the announcement:

• TRIPLE CROSSING – a geopolitical crime drama set in a lawless South American city that borders Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. Produced by John Malkovich’s Mr. Mudd (Juno, The Dancer Upstairs).


As for realism and knowledge of the site... I'll wait until I actually see it to figure out whether they just used their imagination or actually sent someone to scout out the border zone for verisimilitude. One interesting give-away: the cities at this border use four currencies for common exchange, interchangeably--Guaraníes, Reais, Pesos, and Dollars.

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How To: Visit Iguazu Falls/Foz do Iguaçu while in Paraguay

By Christine Folch | Published Saturday, October 10, 2009

So, let's say, for example, that you're a tourist visiting Paraguay. How do you get to see this?

all photos of Iguazu by me

A way to rephrase the question is: what's the simplest way to cross from Ciudad del Este into Brazil? The first thing to note is that the locals, because they're in Mercosur, which has a common id card (cedula) that allows entry into all member countries, think it's just as simple as walking across the bridge that connects Paraguay to Brazil. This would be incorrect.

Public transportation is the way to go: Either in the form of the buses lined up on the Ruta Internacional (the road leading up to the bridge (Puente de la Amistad) on the Paraguayan side that charge about 8mil Guaraní or 2 reais (a little more than a dollar))-- look for it on the double lane part of the highway in front of Monalisa or via taxis (this option is a Very Distant Second and charges considerably more-- be prepared to pay at least 40mil Guaraní). Remember that Brazil is one hour ahead of Paraguay and so at night, by 7pm Brazil time, the buses between the cities stop running and the best way across back into Paraguay is taxis (be prepared to pay 35 reais--$19 USD-- to get your from the urban bus terminal in Foz back across the bridge into Paraguay). Take a moto taxi only if you have a death wish. Just sit tight on the bus as you pass through Paraguay's and Brazil's migraciones and aduanas complex, comply with the request--should a customs officer come on board in Brazil--to open your purse as they want to see if you've purchased anything in Paraguay, tinker with your cellphone, don't gab loudly in English (this is rude behavior in general), and consider resisting the urge to take out your camera and photograph whatever it is that is catching your eye as you cross that bridge.


You want to go to the "terminal de omnibus"-- the urban bus terminal, which the bus running between Foz and CdE stops at. There, go to the entrance (where the turn stiles are) and pay your fare for the urban buses (right now it's 2 reais 20 centavos) and ask for "parque nacional" or "cataratas." They'll point out where to stand (on the platform on your left after you pass through the turn stiles).

Get in the back of the bus that pulls up-- this is usually the exit, but since you've paid your fare already, you go through here. The last stop on the bus (perhaps a 30minute ride) is the entrance to Iguazu. Citizens of the United States pay a 20 reais entrance fee. Realize you'll get wet-- wear appropriate shoes.

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Where to eat: Man House, Ciudad del Este's best Korean spot.

By Christine Folch | Published Saturday, September 12, 2009


One of the benefits of living in Mos Eisley is the diversity of the cuisine. Though there are several Korean restaurants in this Paraguayan city of 300,000 (I'm more inclined to think the real population of CdE is closer to 125,000), Man House rises above them.


Not to be missed: the bulgogi is good, the pork ribs are even better, and the spicy seafood (marisco) soup (I think it's number 10 on the first page of the menu) is stellar. They serve the meat with sesame leaves for rolling (not just lettuce). Prices (which are reasonable are in dollars, but they accept guaranies, reales, and pesos--even all at once.


Open for lunch and dinner during the week. On Abay between Adriana Jara and Pai Perez.

Note: I'm trying to show the exact location via Google maps, but it has the streets either unfinished or mislabeled for this city-- in fact, they label the city Puerto Presidente Stroessner (!!!) a name not used since 1989. Wow. Bad job on this.

I give up. No Google Maps link to CdE is accurate enough.

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Where to eat: Trapiche, Seafood restaurant extraordinaire in Foz do Iguaçu

By Christine Folch | Published Friday, September 4, 2009

Carly prepares to dive in.


Yes, you are looking at shrimp, octopus, squid, bacalao.

Satisfy your cravings for excellent seafood in Foz do Iguaçu at Trapiche. The name of the restaurant means "sugar cane mill" or "olive press," but in this border town in Brazil, it translates to "damn fine food." The shellfish fresh, the sushi quite respectable, and the caldeira of Moquequa (a stew made from coconut milk, palm oil, cilantro, onions, and seafood--a traditional dish of Bahia) was enough for at least three people (though, being a good cubinicana, I ate a share for at least two) and served with rice and pirão (yuca/mandioca/cassava farina made with the broth from the moquequa). It runs about $69 reales ($34 USD). Open for lunch Wednesday-Sunday, dinner every night of the week, and a rodizio of shellfish on weekends. Located on Deodoro across from Hotel Rafain.

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Red Letter Day for "Triple Frontier" movie writers: Ciudad del Este lives up to its reputation.

By Christine Folch | Published Monday, August 17, 2009

With wide-eyed amazement, people ask me "are you okay?" when they hear that I'm living in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay. They've heard and read descriptions that make it sound like Mos Eisley. My answer is usually a shrug and a comment about how all the restaurants are closed by 2pm and there isn't a single movie theatre in the city that supposedly brings in about 40% of Paraguay's GDP (read: not terribly exciting... also, how am I supposed to watch District 9???).

But today was a perfect maelstrom of the malevolent in Ciudad del Este, almost as if orchestrated for an action/adventure movie:

1) Lebanese merchant ("comerciante") Ali Zaioun (Zaium?) narrowly avoided being assassinated in a clear hit job as he and his lawyer left the Palacio de Justicia this morning. As he approached his BMW, two men with helmets on a motor cycle approached and opened fire. Fortunately, Zaioun's guard pulled his gun and was joined by some cops. Zaioun was untouched. His car riddled with bullets. The assailant who died during the battle was also a police officer--badge and handcuffs in a pocket. The one who lived is wounded, in the hospital, and still to be questioned...

2) Meanwhile, today a Paraguayan immigration officer was arrested for issuing a false passport and national id card to a Colombian woman. Colombian lady was supposed to fly into Spain on her fake Paraguayan passport. She, the immigration officer, and two Paraguayan women have been detained. We'll see what happens.

3) Two drug mules arrested in Brazil yesterday with 137 kilos of marijuana explained today that they acquired their cargo in the middle of Ciudad del Este and were headed to the capital of Paraná state, Curitiba. Wholesale value on the street? Some $300,000.

4) The son of a Brazilian couple (all living in Paraguay) is still missing after being kidnapped Friday by cops (or perhaps a couple of men pretending to be cops).

Really? Does it have to be like this? This is also the only city in Paraguay where I know you can get bubble tea and the Korean food is excellent.

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Another movie about the Triple Frontera: "Triple Frontier"

By Christine Folch | Published Tuesday, August 11, 2009

As an increasingly popular go-to site for adventure, organized crime, and a bit of the exotic, the border zone where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet (and where I live, doing my dissertation research) will once more be an earth-bound Mos Eisley.

Here's the full article from the New York Times, but the most pertinent part is:

Variety reported that Ms. Bigelow, the director of action films like “The Hurt Locker” and “Point Break,” had struck a deal with Paramount Pictures to direct a new adventure movie for the studio called “Triple Frontier.” Few plot details about the new movie were given, except that it is set at a border zone shared by Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil where organized crime is rampant.

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Moral Quandary: Tamiflu in CdE

By Christine Folch | Published Wednesday, August 5, 2009

photo of my window sill by me


Swine flu has followed the footsteps of winter. After killing plenty of people in the Northern hemisphere, it's made its way down south, to spread here (and being especially nasty in Argentina). Reports in Paraguay have the number of deaths at 22, but my trust of health care and health statistics in this country is non-existent and I'd rather take my luck with traditional healers than step through the doors of anything resembling a hospital or clinic. So, given that most of the flu in this country is H1N1, my guess is that more than 22 have died. And I've basically taken to carrying disinfectant hand gel and taking zinc vitamins to stay healthy.

And then the news came last week: Brazilians have been coming in droves to buy Tamiflu (oseltamivir phosphate) without a prescription in the pharmacies of Ciudad del Este. Supplies of the anti-retroviral drug are basically out in Brazil (Argentina didn't even have hand sanitizer when I was there two weeks ago, so I don't even know what to think of its medical supply) and so thousands cross the border in search of the real thing or generic imitations--called Laporcina, Oselta, and Biosid.

Sure, this is something that should only be administered under doctor's orders. And there's enough contraband and pirating in Ciudad del Este that anything could be faked. But, there's no telling when Paraguay's stocks will run out and I have an unwavering mistrust of medical advice down here...
photo of my window sill and the top of my dresser by me

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