Showing posts with label Brazil. Show all posts

Colorado & Brazil mine disasters kill two rivers in 2015.

Contaminated Rio Doce Water Flows into the Atlantic (23414457121).jpg
NASA Earth Observatory image shows toxic mud reaching Atlantic Ocean.
Contaminated Rio Doce Water Flows into the Atlantic. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 via Commons.

The Basics to understand 2 of the worst environmental disasters from this year. The short of it is that twin mining disasters have killed two rivers. The long-term punchline is this: figuring out how to respond to these disasters will shape the future because of how they affect trans-boundary water systems and the $$$ involved.

Animas River Before & After (Durango Herald)


  • August 5, 2015: EPA employees & contractors, working on cleaning up an abandoned gold mine in Colorado, instead release toxic waste water from a breached dam. Contaminants from Gold King Mine flood Cement Creek and then the Animas River, turning the whole thing bright yellow.

  • November 5, 2015: a dam holding back waste from an iron ore mine ruptures, sending toxic mud into the Doce River in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil. More than a dozen people die immediately and the river is turned bright red, killing all forms of wildlife. Contaminants from the Brazilian-English/Australian Samarco Mineração mine travel down the Doce and reach the Atlantic Ocean on November 22, 2015. This means that the southern Atlantic Ocean will feel the detrimental impacts.

  • ### years: the EPA is keeping quiet, but it's going to take years before the Animas River will be cleaned up. During that time, communities that live on the basin will face potentially lethal contaminants and the farming/ranching industries fed by the river are done.

  • 100 years: Brazilian marine biologist Andres Ruchi told the BBC to expect that the southern Atlantic Ocean (!!!) and the Doce River would be compromised for at least 100 years. 

  • Navajo Nation rejected by FEMA: the EPA-caused spill has flowed into Navajo land, which means that ground water is contaminated and houses near the river are not suitable for human habitation. But FEMA has rejected tribal president Russell Begaye's request to help with clean-up.

  • Doce River Species Extinct: "The biodiversity of the river is completely lost," said Rio-based researcher Aloysio Ferrão. "Several species, including endemic ones must be extinct."

  • $### : the EPA isn't saying how much it's going to cost to clean up the Animas disaster.

  • Brazilian gov't sues for $5.2billion: $260million pledged by Samarco Mining Co. is not enough, according to the Brazilian government, which has initiated a $5.2billion lawsuit against Samarco and its two parent companies: BHP Billiton and Vale.
  Flooding after Bento Rodrigues dam breach.gif
"Flooding after Bento Rodrigues dam breach" by NASA - http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/IOTD/view.php?id=86990. Licensed under Public Domain via Commons.

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Introducing: The Global Brazil Lab @Duke

This is a great time to be studying Brazil and Duke and the Franklin Humanities Institute are a great place to do it. The Global Brazil Lab rests on three tentpoles—culture, politics, and nature—because Brazil forces us to ask comparative questions, questions that cross borders of all kinds: historical, linguistic, oceanic. I've just joined the Lab as a co-director, along with historian John French and romance studies/visual art scholar Esther Gabara, where I'll be able to focus on bringing in the environmental humanities as we have wide-ranging conversations with students, community members, faculty, and guests from Brazil.

For more:

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Wheaton Alumni Magazine: Sustainability: Lessons from Latin America

My latest in Wheaton's Alumni Magazine, the Faculty Voice column:

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When I tell people that I’m an anthropologist, an image of Indiana Jones, fedora-clad and bullwhip in hand, is often the first picture that comes to mind. Though I’ve never raided a lost ark or escaped a snake pit, I have seen the stunning Iguazú waterfalls depicted in the fourth film of the series. And I’ve heard stories that rival Hollywood drama from locals adept at debating energy politics.

As a cultural anthropologist, I research how people live in the world today. The core lesson I’ve learned is the importance of seeing through someone else’s eyes, not merely because we value diversity, but because it’s there we find wisdom.

I study renewable energy in Latin America, a topic I find more engrossing now than when I began my research in 2007. Yet, had I not heeded the input of an ordinary Paraguayan, I would have missed that path.

Confession: the first time I visited Itaipú Dam (the Brazilian-Paraguayan hydroelectric plant that I research), I was underwhelmed. Even though it’s the largest dam in the entire world (capable of powering 33 percent of California’s annual energy usage), Iguazú, the Argentine-Brazilian cataracts where water pounds rock so powerfully that the mist rises like smoke, eclipsed my present view of Itaipú’s concrete wall and placid reservoir.  

Then, one Paraguayan to my right murmured, “Paraguay used to have waterfalls like Iguazú.” He took my look of surprise as an invitation to continue. “But they were destroyed for that,” he added with a meaningful nod at Itaipú Dam....

For the rest of the piece, see the interactive version of the Wheaton Alumni Magazine.
 

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AAA Presentation: All That Is Water: Engineering Energy Sovereignties and Electricity Nationalities


I'm delighted to be part of this excellent panel at the AAA conference this Wednesday in Chicago: Technopolitical Futures: Transformations in State and Expertise (12-4pm)

I'm giving my paper, All That Is Water: Engineering Energy Sovereignties and Electricity Nationalities, at 2:15 on Wednesday November 20 (room TBA).

My abstract: The engineers responsible for Itaipú Binational Dam were tasked with more than just churning water into electricity or spinning nature into national development. They had to find a way to give electricity, generated by the same water of the same river at the same dam, two discrete national identities as a way to defend the sovereignty of the dam's owners, Brazil and Paraguay. Designed as a juridically distinct space of exception, Itaipú has become a “state within a state,” simultaneously subordinate and exterior to the Brazilian and Paraguayan states, rescaling sovereignties and territorialities to both the regional and the subatomic. As the state rematerializes in energy policies and practices, technicians have been transformed into technocrats such that, in Itaipú, engineering is not merely a scientific endeavor but a kind of politics as a vocation. This paper explores how electrical engineers superintend political processes and, through material and symbolic entailments, bestow nationality upon the nigh immaterial—electricity—to construct energy sovereignties and a territoriality that emanates from the circulation of charge. This invisible circulation animates conceptualizations of property and value which form the basis of a wider ethic of renewable energy newly emergent in South America. Through an ethnography of the discursive and physical interventions initiated by engineers in the world's largest dam, I show how “nature” and “nation” are altered by hydroelectric statecraft, the political economic and symbolic structures that emanate from the harnessing of hydroelectric energy and gesture towards a non-fossil-fuel future where contentions over transborder water resources abound.

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A Different Perspective on the Triple Frontier/Triple Frontera: Business, not Ideology.

I have a new piece that just came out in Foreign Affairs:

Trouble on the Triple Frontier

The Lawless Border Where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay Meet

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Nature Sacrificed: Saltos del Guairá/Sete Quedas (Guairá Waterfalls) in 1936

The Guairá Falls, on the Paraná River between Paraguay and Brazil, were flooded in the early 1980s as part of the construction of Itaipú Hydroelectric Dam, their beauty sacrificed to create energy. (They're sometimes called "Guaíra" in Brazil).

This is a fantastic video from 1936 (!) that gives a sense of their majesty. Notice the couple walking along the flimsy bridge (and their gaucho pants!).


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New mosque in Ciudad del Este: fears of future violence.



Image of the future mosque (and construction) in Ciudad del Este. h/t: Última Hora
A new mosque and cultural center is being built in Ciudad del Este (Paraguay). The cornerstone was laid this morning in a construction project that's estimated to take another year and a half. The building, which is located a little less than two miles west of Ciudad del Este's commercial center, is likely to prove controversial on a number of levels.

The area surrounding Ciudad del Este, the Triple Frontier where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet is home to a sizable Lebanese-Syrian population (some 3% of the total population in the region) which has come under international scrutiny. The security concerns are that the community in the Triple Frontier is connected to Islamic terrorist groups and provides financing/shelter/logistical support for violence in South America and beyond. The construction of a new mosque, financed entirely by the local community, might seem like a reaffirmation of this.

Última Hora, an important Paraguayan newspaper, reported on the cornerstone-laying ceremony that took place today and the user comments are fascinating. The majority (all written in Spanish, presumably by Paraguayans) are upset with the new mosque because they see it as an example of Muslim expansion into a Christian country: "Very bad. What lack of respect. They kill Catholics. Why let them build a mosque in a country that is 98% Catholic?" Another commentator worries that this will serve as a pretext for foreign military intervention: "This puts us in the sights of the gringos, so that they'll invade us in the future under the pretext of 'a hotbed of Arab terrorism' in order to get hold of our natural resource: water. Careful!" 

It'll be interesting to see how this conflict unfolds.

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Forthcoming Review Article: "Seeing and the State in Argentina, Brazil, and Cuba"

Forthcoming in the Journal of Latin American and Caribbean Anthropology:

Seeing and the State in Argentina, Brazil, and Cuba
by Christine Folch

A review of:
The Optic of the State: Visuality and Power in Argentina and Brazil. Jens Andermann, Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2007. 256 pp.

Hidden Powers of State in the Cuban Imagination. Kenneth Routon, Gainesville: University of Florida Press, 2010. 204 pp.

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[UPDATED] Unfolding Crisis over Venezuela: Regional Integration or the Sovereignty of States?



Disagreement over Venezuela's membership in Mercosur is pitting the sovereignty of Paraguay against the political authority of the larger region.

In brief: the majority in Paraguay's congress oppose a proposal to make Venezuela a full member of Mercosur. The other three member countries (Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay) have supported Venezuela's entrance, as does the current president of Paraguay (Fernando Lugo). Rumors are spreading that Mercosur will force Venezuela's full entry through some sort of declaration that effectively circumvents the authority of Paraguay's congress and, by extension, the will of the Paraguayan people.

Within Paraguay, this is seen as a violation of Paraguay's sovereignty. Uruguay is hosting a Mercosur summit today, which will be attended by all four presidents, foreign ministers, and the heads of the central banks. Other agenda items have been overshadowed by the question of whether Venezuela's membership will be imposed upon Paraguay.

The Common Market of the Southern Cone (Mercosur) was created in 1991 by the Treaty of Asunción, signed by the four initial member countries: Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. According to the Treaty (Article 20), new members must be approved by unanimous consent of current members. Treaties (unlike "Agreements") require the approval by national parliamentary bodies--this is why they have so much more weight than just agreements signed by presidents. The former presidents of the four countries approved Venezuela's full membership in 2006, which was later ratified by the congresses of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay. Only Paraguay held out.

In Paraguay and Uruguay, Mercosur is often depicted as yet another way for the two large countries to impose their will on their smaller neighbors. While there has been a "leftward turn" in Latin America (all four countries are governed by left-of-center presidents), Hugo Chavez is not popular in Paraguay. Although the previous Paraguayan president (a Colorado Party conservative) approved Venezuela's full membership, there is a perception that leftist former Bishop Fernando Lugo is forcing Paraguay into a Bolivarian revolution. Moreover, this is framed within Paraguay (and now Uruguay) as a recapitulation of the War of the Triple Alliance (1865-1870), where the combined forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay demolished Paraguay.

But what this ultimately may be about is a classic power struggle within Paraguay between the executive and legislative branches, not between "right" and "left."

UPDATED:
Venezuela and Ecuador are in the process of becoming full member countries of Mercosur. Presidents Hugo Chavez and Rafael Correa were present at the meeting today in Mercosur, arguing for the full admission of their countries. Correa has urged a greater closeness between Mercosur and CAN (the Andean Community-- Venezuela used to be a full member until 2006, when it withdrew from the agreement and sought to enter Mercosur).

As expected, some kind of solution that would work around the stalemate in Paraguay's congress was offered: a Special Commission has been created to determine the terms by which Venezuela and Ecuador will enter Mercosur. The commission will be directly appointed by the presidents of the full member countries (read: not depend on congress).

And though tomorrow I'll discuss the "energy integration" components of today's summit, I want to end with the terrible tragedy that shook the meeting: Iván Heyn was found hanged in his hotel room this afternoon, an apparent suicide. Mr Heyn, Argentine, 34 years old, was Cristina Kirchner's newly appointed Undersecretary of Foreign Trade and was participating in the meetings in Montevideo.

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Brilliant Idea for Paraguay's Electricity: Use it for Internet Data Centers

A few computer geeks in Paraguay have come up with a brilliant idea: to use Paraguay's vast renewable electricity surplus to support internet data centers (IDCs) for companies like Google.

The situation is this: Paraguay has a huge surplus of electricity. It consumes something like 6,000,000 MWh a year, but produces about 50,000,000 MWh a year via its two binational hydroelectric dams Itaipú and Yacyretá. Right now, this excess energy is sold to its neighbors, the co-owners of the two dams (Brazil and Argentina, respectively). This excess, however, could be used to power data centers and, even were Paraguay's domestic consumption to double or treble in the next ten years (an unprecedented growth rate), there'd still be plenty. Itaipú electricity costs about $44 per MWh--a bargain compared to what the average cost is for industry in the U.S., $67.2 per MWh in 2011.

Paraguay is a developing country and this would bring in not only revenue, but improved infrastructure. It's geologically stable (landlocked--no hurricanes or tsunamis; not on a fault line--no volcanoes or earthquakes). And it's physically close to the growing South American giant: Brazil, whose internet and data consumption is continuing to skyrocket.

The place to develop this kind of data park would be in the eastern "department" ("state") of Alto Paraná, probably actually on the site of Acaray (a small hydroelectric dam) or the Paraguayan side of Itaipú, where there's already engineering capacity, security, and the beginning of necessary infrastructure.

The entire proposal, written in Spanish, is here: Uso de energía excedente en Paraguay para alimentar centros de cómputo.

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Brazil’s Senate Approves Itaipú Binacional Energy Deal: What Paraguay Should Do


Quick Review: Itaipú Binacional is the world’s largest hydroelectric dam. It sits across the Paraná river border between and is co-owned by Brazil and Paraguay. With an “installed capacity” of 14,000 megawatts, it churns out enough electricity to meet 19% of Brazil’s needs and 95% of Paraguay’s… or, almost enough electricity to power two New York Cities.

The Controversy: Though Itaipú’s equally owned by Brazil’s and Paraguay’s public electricity companies, the energy isn’t split evenly because Paraguay’s market isn’t big enough. So, as part of the original treaty (1973) between the two countries, Paraguay sells the vast majority of its electricity (80% of its half) to Brazil. For this energy, Eletrobrás (the Brazilian energy company) pays Paraguay about $2.80 per megawatt hour and then has marked it up anywhere between $20 and $80 on its own market, pocketing the difference.* Three years ago, the unthinkable happened in Paraguay: the ruling party lost the presidential election for the first time in living memory. Former Bishop Fernando Lugo (and a lefty, to boot) won the 2008 election, campaigning on a promise to renegotiate this financial arrangement and to then use the money to invest in social development.

The Resolution: High-level negotiations began between Paraguay and Brazil, resulting in a dramatic agreement between Brazilian President Lula da Silva and Paraguayan President Lugo in July 2009, which called for (among other things):

1) a three-fold increase in what Eletrobrás pays Paraguay for Paraguay’s half of the energy—an annual increase from ~$120million to ~$360million (that’ll end in 2023)

2) Paraguay’s electricity company to gradually begin commercializing its energy directly on the Brazilian market—worth about $1.5billion.

Oh, did I mention that in 2010, Paraguay’s GDP was $16billion? These are game-changing amounts.

What Just Happened: The last hurdle to these changes was cleared this past Wednesday, when Brazil’s Senate voted to approve the agreement (though not without some opposition).

And Now: Paraguay should start getting three times as much for its energy starting this month and EVERYONE wants a piece of the easy money $360million pie (interestingly, no one is talking about the even heftier $1.5billion). The question is how to spend this money in a country that regularly sits at the top of “most corrupt” Latin American countries from Transparency International’s Corruption Perception Index. Will $360million go to finance the supporters of the new government? Will it [continue to] go to local governments to cover recurring costs, even though it’s just a temporary windfall? Will it get absorbed into the annual budget of the government (which was more than $8billion in 2010… half of GDP!) where it’s likely to be siphoned off in endemic patronage?

Or will it be invested in developing the educational and infrastructural capacity of Paraguay so that it can develop?

* note that these numbers don’t include the base cost of production, which is paid to the dam for the energy.

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After the Oscars, Triple Frontier movie big news in Paraguay


2003 satellite image of the triple frontier, urbanization predominates on the Paraguayan side

Kathryn Bigelow and Mark Boal, newly minted with well-deserved Oscars, now turn their attention to their next project, a movie about the triple frontera, the tri-border area between Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina that's a node of movement between the three countries. While popular imagination sets Ciudad del Este, Paraguay's city at this border, as the weak and corrupt link, the reality is much more interconnected, with much of the movement across the border (and certainly the compraturistas who cross the Friendship Bridge for day shopping trips) performed by Brazilians themselves (and the vast majority do not live in Foz do Iguaçu, the Brazilian city across the river).


The Friendship Bridge, which connects Paraguay to Brazil, under construction (in the 60s)

Miami Vice also filmed in Ciudad del Este... their legacy lives on in a wooden ramshackle car repair shop (taller) named after them, on Carlos Antonio Lopez (but no one in CdE knows the names of the streets).

Now the Paraguayan press has caught wind of the new movie project, Triple Frontier (Guerra al terror). Already sadly familiar with serving as a setting for international dramas (the fame of the border arises from more than just the smuggling that goes on there, but from the presence of Lebanese and Taiwanese communities, which have been accused of links to organized crime and terror--a charge they vigorously repudiate), Paraguayans seem to be responding with a "meh" or "I wish someone would make a movie about the War of the Triple Alliance (1865-70) instead."

That war saw the death of 9/10 Paraguayan males and the loss of about 1/3 of its territory as Paraguay lost to the combined forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay.


The region in 1973... all the growth you see above is on the Paraguayan side.

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Tri-Border Area comes to TV: "Triple Crossing"

The Sundance channel has announced its line-up for the next year and it looks like the Triple Frontera--the border zone between Ciudad del Este, Foz do Iguaçu, and Puerto Iguazu (Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina, respectively) where I've lived and researched--is becoming an increasingly popular go-to setting for exotic baddies.

Here's the heart of the announcement:

• TRIPLE CROSSING – a geopolitical crime drama set in a lawless South American city that borders Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. Produced by John Malkovich’s Mr. Mudd (Juno, The Dancer Upstairs).


As for realism and knowledge of the site... I'll wait until I actually see it to figure out whether they just used their imagination or actually sent someone to scout out the border zone for verisimilitude. One interesting give-away: the cities at this border use four currencies for common exchange, interchangeably--Guaraníes, Reais, Pesos, and Dollars.

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Itaipú Blackout, Trouble for Paraguay’s International Agenda with Brazil.

Image of Itaipú with the spillway open

Last night, the hydroelectric dam Itaipú shut down completely, leaving millions without electricity in Brazil and Paraguay. Here in Asunción, we shrugged and continued drinking wine (this is par for the course in the country which produces the highest amount of electricity per capita) but in Brazil, it caused grave concern as Saõ Paulo and Rio de Janeiro came to a standstill.

Itaipú, famous as the world’s largest energy producing dam (and, slightly less well-known as the topic of my dissertation research here in Paraguay) is legally co-owned by Brazil and Paraguay and has been the issue of massive popular mobilization and international diplomacy in the past few years because of Paraguayan dissatisfaction with the uneven distribution of the dam’s energy and financial resources. The key issue is that Paraguay wants to have “full access” to its half of the energy of the dam and sell it for a “just price”—right now, all its unused energy from the dam is sold to Brazil. For this electricity, Paraguay received about $2.81 per megawatt hour, which Brazil then went and sold for anywhere between $20 and $80 per megawatt hour.

In July of this past year, there were serious advances made in the negotiations between Paraguay and Brazil as Presidents Fernando Lugo (P) and Lula da Silva (B) signed an agreement increasing the amount Paraguay will receive per megawatt hour and eventually be able to sell its energy to third parties, among other things.

But, in Brazil there was and has been resistance to this, with claims that Lula has prioritized other countries over Brazil and with claims that Paraguay is asking something for nothing (since only Brazil secured the capital necessary to build the binational dam). And with a tangible experience of what Brazil is like without Itaipú—blackouts in the major cities, subway trains stalled underneath the city—the issue of “energy security” may be all the more controversial and make it difficult for the Brazilian parliament to approve the signed agreement.

Whether this was caused by a short somewhere in the Brazilian system or from “atmospheric conditions,” the truth remains that, in violation of the 1973 Itaipú Treaty, only one substation to process the electricity was built—the one on the Brazilian side. A substation was supposed to have been built on the Paraguayan side, but never was.

Itaipú supplied about 19.3% of Brazil’s electricity and 87.3% of Paraguay’s electricity in 2008. It has an installed capacity of 14,000 megawatts (20 turbines at 700 megawatts each—10 belonging to each country). Paraguay uses about 10% of the electricity produced by Itaipú, Brazil 90%. At any given moment, two turbines (one for each country) are turned off for maintenance and upkeep, but, nevertheless, Paraguay uses the electricity from two of its turbines, the rest go to Brazil.

EDITED to add:
The infighting in Brazil begins today. Also, the word for "blackout" in Spanish is "apagón" and in Portuguese is "blecaute."

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How To: Visit Iguazu Falls/Foz do Iguaçu while in Paraguay

So, let's say, for example, that you're a tourist visiting Paraguay. How do you get to see this?

all photos of Iguazu by me

A way to rephrase the question is: what's the simplest way to cross from Ciudad del Este into Brazil? The first thing to note is that the locals, because they're in Mercosur, which has a common id card (cedula) that allows entry into all member countries, think it's just as simple as walking across the bridge that connects Paraguay to Brazil. This would be incorrect.

Public transportation is the way to go: Either in the form of the buses lined up on the Ruta Internacional (the road leading up to the bridge (Puente de la Amistad) on the Paraguayan side that charge about 8mil Guaraní or 2 reais (a little more than a dollar))-- look for it on the double lane part of the highway in front of Monalisa or via taxis (this option is a Very Distant Second and charges considerably more-- be prepared to pay at least 40mil Guaraní). Remember that Brazil is one hour ahead of Paraguay and so at night, by 7pm Brazil time, the buses between the cities stop running and the best way across back into Paraguay is taxis (be prepared to pay 35 reais--$19 USD-- to get your from the urban bus terminal in Foz back across the bridge into Paraguay). Take a moto taxi only if you have a death wish. Just sit tight on the bus as you pass through Paraguay's and Brazil's migraciones and aduanas complex, comply with the request--should a customs officer come on board in Brazil--to open your purse as they want to see if you've purchased anything in Paraguay, tinker with your cellphone, don't gab loudly in English (this is rude behavior in general), and consider resisting the urge to take out your camera and photograph whatever it is that is catching your eye as you cross that bridge.


You want to go to the "terminal de omnibus"-- the urban bus terminal, which the bus running between Foz and CdE stops at. There, go to the entrance (where the turn stiles are) and pay your fare for the urban buses (right now it's 2 reais 20 centavos) and ask for "parque nacional" or "cataratas." They'll point out where to stand (on the platform on your left after you pass through the turn stiles).

Get in the back of the bus that pulls up-- this is usually the exit, but since you've paid your fare already, you go through here. The last stop on the bus (perhaps a 30minute ride) is the entrance to Iguazu. Citizens of the United States pay a 20 reais entrance fee. Realize you'll get wet-- wear appropriate shoes.

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Prize-worthy ad: Personal plays on Paraguay's win over Argentina, loss of the War of the Triple Alliance

Print image from brilliant Personal ad. Source ABC Color

Paraguay has a reputation for being remote and so when I try to convey, particularly to scholars of Latin America, what Paraguay is like, I settle on two points: the use of Guaraní and the War of the Triple Alliance. Paraguay is really a bilingual country where the usage of Guaraní pervades all daily interactions--more people speak only Guaraní than only Spanish. And the majority of that indigenous language's speakers are not themselves Native Americans.

Next, the War of the Triple Alliance (1865-1870) is ever-present in Paraguayan memory. This was lost by Paraguay to the combined forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay-- Paraguay lost nearly half its territory, 90% of its male population, and around 50% of its entire population. This war is mentioned every day in the newspapers, any time when people discuss social ills (poverty, inequality, land issues)-- the important national holiday "Día del niño" (where you give kids easter-like baskets and toys) on Aug 16 commemorates the slaughter of pre-adolescent Paraguayan boys by Argentine troops in a battle towards the end of the war. This is Paraguay's holocaust, ever-present.

And so when Paraguay beat Argentina last week at soccer, it was seen in the context of that War. Need proof? Look at this ad for Personal, a Paraguayan cellphone company, featuring Salvador Cabañas (who we call gordinho, in all affection), the dude who set up Nelson Haedo's goal, and quite possibly the most likeable dude on the team. As he rallies his troops to victory in South Africa, the iconography is all about the War of the Triple Alliance and Mariscal Solano López who led his country into war and "murió con su patria" (died with his fatherland). All the right notes are hit--this ad should win a prize for cultural contextual excellence.





Even the title of the ad--Heroes--invokes the common term for the participants of that war.

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Where to eat: Trapiche, Seafood restaurant extraordinaire in Foz do Iguaçu

Carly prepares to dive in.


Yes, you are looking at shrimp, octopus, squid, bacalao.

Satisfy your cravings for excellent seafood in Foz do Iguaçu at Trapiche. The name of the restaurant means "sugar cane mill" or "olive press," but in this border town in Brazil, it translates to "damn fine food." The shellfish fresh, the sushi quite respectable, and the caldeira of Moquequa (a stew made from coconut milk, palm oil, cilantro, onions, and seafood--a traditional dish of Bahia) was enough for at least three people (though, being a good cubinicana, I ate a share for at least two) and served with rice and pirão (yuca/mandioca/cassava farina made with the broth from the moquequa). It runs about $69 reales ($34 USD). Open for lunch Wednesday-Sunday, dinner every night of the week, and a rodizio of shellfish on weekends. Located on Deodoro across from Hotel Rafain.

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Red Letter Day for "Triple Frontier" movie writers: Ciudad del Este lives up to its reputation.

With wide-eyed amazement, people ask me "are you okay?" when they hear that I'm living in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay. They've heard and read descriptions that make it sound like Mos Eisley. My answer is usually a shrug and a comment about how all the restaurants are closed by 2pm and there isn't a single movie theatre in the city that supposedly brings in about 40% of Paraguay's GDP (read: not terribly exciting... also, how am I supposed to watch District 9???).

But today was a perfect maelstrom of the malevolent in Ciudad del Este, almost as if orchestrated for an action/adventure movie:

1) Lebanese merchant ("comerciante") Ali Zaioun (Zaium?) narrowly avoided being assassinated in a clear hit job as he and his lawyer left the Palacio de Justicia this morning. As he approached his BMW, two men with helmets on a motor cycle approached and opened fire. Fortunately, Zaioun's guard pulled his gun and was joined by some cops. Zaioun was untouched. His car riddled with bullets. The assailant who died during the battle was also a police officer--badge and handcuffs in a pocket. The one who lived is wounded, in the hospital, and still to be questioned...

2) Meanwhile, today a Paraguayan immigration officer was arrested for issuing a false passport and national id card to a Colombian woman. Colombian lady was supposed to fly into Spain on her fake Paraguayan passport. She, the immigration officer, and two Paraguayan women have been detained. We'll see what happens.

3) Two drug mules arrested in Brazil yesterday with 137 kilos of marijuana explained today that they acquired their cargo in the middle of Ciudad del Este and were headed to the capital of Paraná state, Curitiba. Wholesale value on the street? Some $300,000.

4) The son of a Brazilian couple (all living in Paraguay) is still missing after being kidnapped Friday by cops (or perhaps a couple of men pretending to be cops).

Really? Does it have to be like this? This is also the only city in Paraguay where I know you can get bubble tea and the Korean food is excellent.

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Another movie about the Triple Frontera: "Triple Frontier"

As an increasingly popular go-to site for adventure, organized crime, and a bit of the exotic, the border zone where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet (and where I live, doing my dissertation research) will once more be an earth-bound Mos Eisley.

Here's the full article from the New York Times, but the most pertinent part is:

Variety reported that Ms. Bigelow, the director of action films like “The Hurt Locker” and “Point Break,” had struck a deal with Paramount Pictures to direct a new adventure movie for the studio called “Triple Frontier.” Few plot details about the new movie were given, except that it is set at a border zone shared by Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil where organized crime is rampant.

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Moral Quandary: Tamiflu in CdE

photo of my window sill by me


Swine flu has followed the footsteps of winter. After killing plenty of people in the Northern hemisphere, it's made its way down south, to spread here (and being especially nasty in Argentina). Reports in Paraguay have the number of deaths at 22, but my trust of health care and health statistics in this country is non-existent and I'd rather take my luck with traditional healers than step through the doors of anything resembling a hospital or clinic. So, given that most of the flu in this country is H1N1, my guess is that more than 22 have died. And I've basically taken to carrying disinfectant hand gel and taking zinc vitamins to stay healthy.

And then the news came last week: Brazilians have been coming in droves to buy Tamiflu (oseltamivir phosphate) without a prescription in the pharmacies of Ciudad del Este. Supplies of the anti-retroviral drug are basically out in Brazil (Argentina didn't even have hand sanitizer when I was there two weeks ago, so I don't even know what to think of its medical supply) and so thousands cross the border in search of the real thing or generic imitations--called Laporcina, Oselta, and Biosid.

Sure, this is something that should only be administered under doctor's orders. And there's enough contraband and pirating in Ciudad del Este that anything could be faked. But, there's no telling when Paraguay's stocks will run out and I have an unwavering mistrust of medical advice down here...
photo of my window sill and the top of my dresser by me

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